Mount
Trishuli West, a remotely located inaccessible unclimbed peak surrounded
by Bangri Glacier, Mount Trishuli Main and Mount Hardol from south-west,
north-east and south-east respectively, is approximately 45 km from Jumma
(last road-head) on Joshimath-Malari axis. Being one of the most
technically challenging mountains, this has become talk of the day in
mountaneering circle. First attempt was made in 1939. Since then fifteen
expeditions failed to climb this peak and four mountaineers have lost
their lives. This year also, two foreign expeditions dared to attempt this
peak. The British and German expeditions were beaten back. Koreans
declared this peak invincible.
The Nehru Institute of
Mountaineering (NIM) organised an expedition to Mount Trishuli. The NIM
team was flagged off by the Chief Minister of Uttarnchal Mr Nityanand
Swami. Establishing intermediate camp at Dunagiri (4000m), base camp at
Bangni Kharak (4451M), Camp-I (5000m) on lateral morane, Camp-II (5518m)
on Bangri Glacier near the base of the mountain, the team reached Camp-III
(6341m). The team stayed at Camp-III for five days. Ropes were fixed to
open the route further but due to hostile weather conditions the team came
back to Camp-II. The team again occupied Camp-III. The route was opened to
Camp IV (6638m). Inspite of the hostile weather conditions the route was
opened and the seven member team including the leader reached the summit
on July 17, last. Total 3000m of rope was fixed from the base to the
summit. The mountain for the first time unveiled glimpses of its hidden
treasures to the team.
The
mountaineering team was led by Maj Kulwant Singh Dhami and the team
members were Mr Rattan Singh Chauhan, Mr Laxman Singh Negi, Sub Amrik
Singh, Hav Karamjeet Singh, Mr Jagmohan Rawat and Mr Soban Singh Bhandari.
The flag-in ceremony was held at NIM
Auditorium, Delhi. Mr Jaswant Singh, Defence Minister was the chief guest
and flagged in the team. He congratulated the team members.
The Nehru Institute of Mountaineering
was set up at Uttarkashi in October 1965. The institute is run jointly by
the Ministry of Defence and the Government of Uttaranchal. The Defence
Minister is the President of the institute and the Chief Minister,
Uttaranchal is the Vice-President.
input :
Sanjeev K Sharma