Our train moved on a
hot priority to Ahmedabad in April 1965. We found ourselves at
a railway station near Gandhidham early next morning. Our road
journey commenced almost immediately.
The destination was the
gateway to Rann, Khavda. The Rann of Kutch lay just six
kilometres north of it. Settled in a tent for the night, we
were briefed on the impending task. We were raring to go into
action for operation Kabaddi.
Khavda, a sleepy oasis
township of about hundred odd houses built of mud bricks with
thatched roofs, four or five sweet water wells and some trees
which provided shade, lay on the dust track to the Rann. Few
good houses that existed were requisitioned by us and the
shady areas were cordoned off for the Sector Headquarters and
the helipad.
Tall, breaded, in their
traditional attire donning tall turbans, Kutchi menfolk
greeted wherever we went. Women in colourful dresses, carrying
babes in arms, were heavily decked up with silver jewellery.
Both locals and the Army shared water points, rest areas and
animals for load carriage. Briefing after briefings followed.
We endured them all.
Absence of landmarks
coupled with fear of getting lost, imposed caution during our
journey to Mori Bet, our next halt. Reaching late in the
evening, we were off to our action stations at Biar Bet and
Chhad Bet. By the end of April, Pakistan’s experimental war
in the Rann was over. This left us jobless as well. Peace-time
activities such as training, administration and maintenance in
forward areas were very boring.
Watching sunrise in
early morning chill was bracing. There was ample time to
admire the fauna, chinkaras, wild asses and rabbits. As
for birds, Rann is India’s only known flamingo breeding
ground and is a staging area for migratory birds flying
northwest. Never in my life had I seen so many camels of all
shapes, size and hues. They were fitted with saddles and
leather mashaks or water containers.
Kutchis have camel
stories to tell which are impossible to believe. Newly born
baby camels are capable of standing and following their
mothers long distances within two hours of their birth. During
afternoons, if you choose to drive instead of taking a nap,
you could see mirages all over. Fly population proliferates
dramatically and disappears at night. It was a common sight
people having lunch inside mosquito nets. Flaming red sunsets
were a sight to watch every evening. Wind speeds of 15 to 20
knots kept the evenings very pleasant. Someone even tried his
hand at para-sailing using a plywood skid board hoisted by a
parachute and ended up breaking his femurs.
A senior’s anniversary
party on June 30, 1965 was an unforgettable affair. Lightning
accompanied by a squall was delightfully ignored as we
concentrated more on backslapping, camaraderie and drinking.
This gala evening did not last long.
With a suden cloudburst,
Rann was a vast sheet of water with us floating inside. We
located our submerged tents, jeeps and trailers with long
cammo net poles in good time. Next problem was to move them.
Fishing for the belongings inside bunkers followed. Ropes and
tow chains helped us to recover vehicles but they could not be
started. It was now well past midnight and a few hours nap
would help.
The following morning,
MI-4 helicopter on survey indicated a supply-drop for us. We
stood on the bonnets of the vehicle, slapping our tummies to
indicate SOS. Down came a gunny bag containing some puffed
rice, chocolates, kraft cheese and a jerrican of drinking
water. We turned our attention to our vehicles and succeeded
in recovering two of them. Others were tow started and driving
back to the base in this condition was a task in itself. After
an enforced halt at Khavda, we left for Bhuj the next day.
At Bhuj, we got the much needed respite.
Shopping in Bhuj town was possible only on weekends. Local
shopkeepers accepted cheques without any fear. Kutchi silver
jewellery, being very exquisite and cheap, was very popular
and in demand. Someone remarked that smuggled gold was also
cheap but that didn’t affect us. We did see a few single
storey concrete buldings such as the local SDO’s office, one
odd cinema hall, civil hospital and a few private houses.
Majority of construction was mud brick. We visited both Mandvi
and Kandla, which had very primitive port facilities those
days. Anjar, Bachar and Rapar were big villages where we
halted when long convoy drives were undertaken. By then trains
were ready for us to move back to the sweltering heat of Agra.
Again in September 1965, we were sent to the Western Sector
for operation Riddle. Kutch was thus only a brief
interlude!