The
Kumaon region remains a vast amphitheatre of unclimbed peaks and
unexplored valleys and glaciers. It extends from the Tibetan border in the
east, where Lipu Lekh pass gives access to Mansarovar, upto the Nanda Devi
Sanctuary in the west, where the Unta Dhura permits entry into
neighbouring Garhwal. Dominating the region from the north-east end of the
Yankchar glacier is Suitilla, standing unconquered (till recently)
at 21,000 ft (6,373m). The modest height of Suitilla is more than
compensated by the serious technical challenges it offers to climbers in
the form of extreme gradients of mixed ice and rock surfaces.
So, when Admiral Madhvendra Singh,
Chief of Naval Staff flagged off the naval mountaineering expedition on
September 6 in New Delhi, he presented an ice axe, bearing the national
flag and the naval ensign, and directed the team leader Lt Cdr Satyabrata
Dam to take the ice axe where no one has ever been before. The team
successfully scaled the virgin peak, Mt Suitilla (6373 m) on
October 6. A second team thereafter took another assault on the peak on
October 11. The ice axe was then returned in New Delhi during the flag-in
ceremony on October 28 for safe keeping until the next expedition.
In
tune with its motto of "fighting spirit through sports and
adventure" the Indian Navy provides facilities and support for its
personnel to take up challenging and robust outdoor activities. Capt Kohli
of the Indian Navy was the leader of a successful expedition to Mount
Everest in 1965. A complete expedition of the Indian Navy has been fielded
only after 1959.
This present expedition was Indian
Navy’s first of a series of major initiatives in mountaineering. The Suitilla
peak stands defiantly in the Ralam valley of Kumaon posing numerous
challenges to climbers and is aptly named because of its needle shaped
top. It has defeated many earlier attempts by experienced mountaineers
from India and abroad. It is pertinent to note that apart from the leader
and deputy leader, this was the first mountaineering expedition for
others. This maiden effort against a very challenging mountain was
possible due to the meticulous planning, training, coordination, teamwork,
camaraderie and a will to succeed.
The
team moved by road to Munsyari to commence the five to six days trek to
base camp which was established on September 23 at 13,850 ft, just below
the Yankchar Dhura. The team then began ferrying of loads to the advance
base camp, which was established on September 28 at 15,300 ft at the base
of the peak itself. The team was thereafter divided into two groups, one
to attempt a summit and the other to stay at base camp and render support.
The
first group negotiated the crevasse-ridden icefall on the southwestern
flank of the peak and set up Camp-1 on a ledge at 17,550 ft on October.
The climb was extremely hazardous with falling rocks, freezing winds and
70 degree steep slopes. The team commenced climbing pre-dawn for four days
and toiled towards the summit. Lt Amit Pandey (deputy team leader),
Divyesh Muni (photo crew member) and Sherpa Nine Jorje climbed the peak at
1539 hrs on October 6. This was followed by a second successful ascent on
October 11 by Lts KS Balaji and Amit Rajora, and two sailors, Raj Kumar
and Anirban Choudhary, accompanied by two sherpas. Deteriorating weather
prevented further attempts. The other members of the team included the
team leader, Lt Cdr Satyabrata Dam, an experienced and acclaimed
mountaineer, Lt Cdr Vombatkere, Lt Prashant Srivastava and Surgeon Lt PS
Anand.
With success thus initiated, the
Indian Navy looks forward to conquer Mt Everest in spring next year.
- Cdr Rahul Gupta